LES AMUSES BOUCHES
(The Cuisine of the Bouches du Rhône)

By Anne Ager

The varieties of amuses bouches  (small bites) that are available to accompany an apéritif are as diverse and vast as their namesake region: the Bouches du Rhône. Nestling between les Alpilles to the north, the Saint Baume and Saint Victoire to to the east, and the flat and marshy ‘cowboy plains’ of the Camargue, Marseille is the region’s principal city. It is known to have inspired great artists, such as Cézanne and Christian Lacroix …. and it offers equal inspiration, temptation and seduction to anyone with a gastronomic palate! The riz rouge de la Camargue  is a very fine example  -  equally seductive to the artist as to the gourmet! This distinctive maroon-coloured rice, with it’s earthy nutty flavour, is divine  -  it takes a little longer to cook than standard rice, but is well worth the effort. This is one of the many foods that I fell in love with in the Bouches du Rhône  -  irresistible!

With such a principal sea port as Marseille on the doorstep, it is hardly surprising that fish and shellfish feature heavily on many local menus. This is, after all, the birthplace of the classic Bouillabaisse, but it is also in the calanques (or creeks), which stretch for nearly 20km between Marseille and Cassis, that you find some of the sea’s hidden edible treasures, such as tiny rock crabs and shrimp.

Sea and salt seem to be synonymous with one another, and the high quality rock salt that is ‘cultivated’ here, exceeds that of any other region in France. You will frequently find a whole fish cooked in a crunchy crust of sea salt ……. and they sometimes do the same with lamb.

Arles and Aix-en-Provence are the other two main cities of the region, and they are not without their own food specialities. The plains around Arles are largely home to olive trees and vines ….. as well as almond trees, figs, plump unforgettable capers, and mulberries. (depending on the season).

You are truly spoilt for choice with the oils of the region, just as you are with the wines. It is very difficult to make a distinct choice between the local olive oil producers. Personally, I think that Moulin à Huile Margier-Aubert is not to be missed. (13390 Auriol – 04.42.04.74.09). They have been producing AOC olive oil for four generations. The fruity green oil is wonderful, but my own preference is for a fermented ‘black’ olive oil, which has a slight aroma and earthy taste of mushrooms. (It is possible to visit the domaine by arrangement: www.moulinmargier.com) For quality olive oil on a somewhat smaller scale, Moulin à Huile Bonfilhon has been producing artisinal oils since the 19th century, where the olives are literally crushed between giant stones. (13450 Grans – 04.90.55.93.08).

And now to raise a glass! The Quiot family have been renowned vineyard owners in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes de Ventoux and Côtes de Provence. They have a long established reputation for high quality wines, from whichever vineyard. Jérome Quiot has now created a subsidiary with Domain Houchart at Puyloubier, to produce a complementary range of wines from the Bouches du Rhône. Although produced in the Bouches du Rhône, the wines are aged and bottled in Châteauneuf-du-Pape … and are exceptional. My own drinkable recommendation would be for the Domaine Hochart Sainte Victoire Red 2004. It has an intense ruby colour and redberry aromas mixed with a hint of spice. Ready for drinking later! If you are more impatient, try the Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence: the wine is light pink in colour with fruity, strawberry white peach and almond aromas. Serve well chilled  -  wonderful with seafood, salads …… and sushi!

As a devoted cheese lover, I have to finish on my favourite flavour! On this occasion it’s La Tôme d’Arles! This is a sheep’s cheese par excellence:  a fromage frais with a pressed curd. Originally formed into circles, with a bay leaf on top of each one, once they are ‘stacked’ side by side to mature, they end up being square! Served with local honey, or a quince jelly they are divine.

BONNES BOUCHES!

 

ANNE AGER

Having qualified as a chef in London & Paris, and worked for numerous food/hospitality companies, on both sides of the Channel, Anne Ager now heads up her own organisation, Côte Cuisine, on the French Riviera. Anne specialises in presenting regular Cookery Courses on Mediterranean cuisine, and catering for special corporate events, such as the Monaco Grand Prix, the Cannes Film Festival and MIPIM.

Anne has now extended her food and hospitality expertise to arranging bespoke dream Weddings in France, for clients from around the world: CÔTE WEDDINGS. Although the majority of her clients are British, she has also created one-off magical days for brides-to-be from America, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, Scandinavia …… and Russia. Favourite locations tend to be on the Côte d’Azur, but Anne can wave her ‘wedding wand’ in all regions of France …. including Paris.

 

www.anne-ager.com
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