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09e Arrondissement Guide

09e Arrondissement

Right bank, Opéra national de Paris-Garnier, Folieres Bergere and Place  Pigalle.
Everything from the Quartier de l'Opéra to the strip and clip joints of Pigalle (the infamous "Pig Alley" for the GI's of World War II) falls within the 9th. When Balzac was writing his novels, the author considered the most elitist address for his socially ambitious characters as the 9th's chaussée d'Antin. Radically altered by the 19th century urban redevelopment projects of Baron Haussmann, the grands boulevards radiating through the district are among the most obvious of the baron's labours. Although the chaussée d'Antin is no longer particularly elegant, having been supplanted by some of Paris's largest department stores, the 9th endures, even if fickle fashion now prefers other addresses.

Music Halls

Over the decades, the 9th has been celebrated in literature and song for the music halls that brought gaiety to the city. Marie Duplessis, known as Marguerite Gautier, heroine of La Dame aux camélias by Alexandre Dumas the younger (1824-95)(a character made famous by Greta Garbo's portrayal in the film Camille), died at 17 blvd de la Madeleine. Boulevard des Italiens is the site of the Café de la Paix, opened in 1856 and once the meeting place of the Romantic poets, including Théophile Gautier and Alfred de Musset. Later, Charles de Gaulle, Marlene Dietrich, and two million Americans started showing up.

Place Pigalle

At  Place Pigalle, gone is the Café La Nouvelle Athènes, where Degas, Pissarro, and Manet used to meet. Today, you're likely to encounter a few clubs where the action gets really down and dirty. Other major attractions include the Folies Bergère, where cancan dancers have been high-kicking it since 1868, and French entertainers such as Mistinguett, Edith Piaf, and Maurice Chevalier have appeared along with Josephine Baker, once hailed as "the toast of Paris."

 

Opéra Garnier

More than anything, it was the Opéra Garnier (Paris Opera House) that made the 9th the last hurrah of Second Empire opulence. Renoir hated it, but several generations later, Chagall did the ceilings. Pavlova danced Swan Lake here, and Nijinsky took the night off to go cruising.

List of attractions in the 9eme

Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Musée Grévin,  10 boulevard Montmartre, 75009
Opéra Garnier, 8 rue Scribe, 75009
Passage Jouffroy,  12 Boulevard Montmartre, 75009
Passage Verdeau, 47 passage Jouffroy, 75009
Printemps, 64, blvd Haussmann, 75009
Sainte-Trinité,  Place d'Estienne d'Orves, 75009

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