Une Cuisine Opaline!
By Anne Ager
The principal towns along the coast of the Côte d’Opale, such as Boulogne and Calais, look out across the sea with a hearty gastronomic appetite, and it is hardly surprising to find that fish and shellfish take pride of place on most of the local menus. One eats very well in this most Northern part of France, almost wherever you go, from the smallest beach-side fish bar to the classic chic of Le Corsaire in Dunkerque, or La Matelôte in Boulogne. Being the greatest fishing port in Northern Europe, Tony Lestienne has the pick of the local catch right on his ‘Matelôte kitchen’s doorstep’, and oysters and mussels are the ‘kings’ of the Opaline coastline.
Venturing further inland, the pastures and farmland are where some of the
finest plump animals are reared, which grace the windows of the highly reputable
local boûcheries - superlative beef, excellent poultry (including
corn-fed guinea fowl), and the unforgettable l’autriche d’Estrée (ostrich).
The bond and mutual respect between professional chefs and les métiers de bouche (the high class local producers) is stronger here than in almost any other part of France …. and the passion is shared equally.
So just what can you expect to find on the menus served on the Côte
d’Opale?
Amongst the fruits de mer, nothing
quite matches the large plump oysters from St. Vaast, and, if you are
going to enjoy them at their very best, one, then head for la crème
de la crème: Château de Montreuil,
at Montreuil-sur-Mer. Here, Christian Germain and his brigade create
their own particular ‘oyster magic’, as well as other ‘Opaline’ specialités
de la maison’ Christian’s Tartare des Huitres Creuses
de St. Vaast aux Concombre is to die for! Finely chopped oysters
are mixed with diced cucumber, fresh mayonnaise, chopped dill and seasoning
to taste. (I sometimes sneak in a little chopped fresh salmon as well).
A special seaweed vinaigrette is made from shelled oysters, white wine
vinegar, olive oil and dried seaweed. The Tartare is arranged
on small glass dishes (or in cleaned oyster shells, if you prefer), and
each one is then topped with a raw oyster and a drizzle of red wine syrup
(optional).
The Licques poultry is considered to be amongst the best that France can produce - offering superlative quality and freshness, this produit de terroir et de qualité not surprisingly carries the much coveted Label Rouge seal of approval. The birds are reared in natural light, fed on a nutritious diet 100% vegetable-based diet, without antibiotics or artificial additives. The result: a flavourful poulet fermiér that is allowed to mature until it is at least 85 days old. The guinea fowl are reared with the same meticulous care and attention, and the chefs of the region adore them for their slightly ‘gamey’ flavour and tender succulent flesh. If you get the chance to try Poularde de Licques de Cresson, you will never forget it. A fine poularde is cooked in chicken stock with olive-sized ‘balls’ of carrot and turnip, sliced celery and leeks, tiny Ratte potatoes from le Touquet, and finished with a watercress and cream beurre blanc. Magnifique!
This is also a cheese lover’s paradise. The chèvres from
Montcavrel are divine, especially when served with a little artisanal honey,
or a glass of lePerlé de Groseille (a delicious
redcurrant based wine), le Perlé de Framboise (raspberry),
or le Perlé de la Cérise (cherry) all produced to
traditional recipes by Hubert Delobel. The North is the land of truly strong
cheeses, many of which are unashamedly smelly, and, if you are into the real ‘big
stinkers’, thenMaroilles is a must! Once bitten, never forgotten.
It is rinsed with beer and allowed to ripen until it acquires a deep golden
crust and is richly ripe to the nostrils. Of all the local ‘smellies’, boulette
d’Avesnes is my own personal favourite. Made from ‘rejected’ Maroilles,
and mashed with tarragon, parsley and fiery red pepper, this distinctive
cone-shaped cheese is literally a ‘cheese bomb’ just waiting
to attack your palate - you will either love it or hate it!
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ANNE AGER
Having qualified as a chef in London & Paris, and worked for numerous food/hospitality companies, on both sides of the Channel, Anne Ager now heads up her own organisation, Côte Cuisine, on the French Riviera. Anne specialises in presenting regular Cookery Courses on Mediterranean cuisine, as well as arranging Boutique Weddings in the region, and catering for special corporate events, such as the Monaco Grand Prix, the Cannes Film Festival and MIPIM.
