Toulon is France’s second most important naval port, a fine  Mediterranean harbour surrounded by hills.  It has been a port since Roman times, and during the 17th and 18th centuries was famous for its galley slaves- observing these poor unfortunates at work, chained to the decks,  used to be a favourite sightseeing excursion.  When the galleys were abolished  the slaves  were jailed,  and the penal colony of Toulon featured in Victor Hugo’s novel,  Les Miserables.  The port suffered grievously  in the Second World War, bombed by Germans and Allies alike,  and required massive post-war reconstruction. Toulon is now the administrative centre of the Var.

In recent years the town has re-asserted itself,  and has a lively atmosphere throughout the year. There is a wealth of new museums , cafes and restaurants, where you can sample local specialties  like  escabeche  de sardine, and la cade,  a cake made from chick peas.  The centre of the modern town is Place de la Liberté, dominated by the magnificent  Grand Hotel,  the last vestige of former glory days. Here too is Place Victor Hugo with its pavement cafes,  and the splendid Opera de Toulon.  Look out for the huge wall frescoes that have become so typical  of Toulon.  The old town with its winding streets and once notorious  red light district, is currently undergoing massive renovation