Vienne Town Guide

Vienne

Amazing secrets of the very glamorous past life of Vienne and its sibling St-Romain across the river, have been unearthed in recent times. These places may look scruffy as you arrive, but take the time to acquaint yourselves with them. Especially the lovable, slightly tatty old Vienne, an exceptional grandee steadily dribbling antiquities, although it is being revived and spruced up to look more and more presentable. Vienne was a very important place in Gallo-Roman and early Christian times. The main settlement of the powerful Celtic Allobroges tribe from the 3rd century BC, it was taken over by Romans after they conquered these territories at the northern limit of their beloved Provincia.

Museum

Vienne enjoyed a period of immense trading prosperity from the 1st century AD to the 3rd, as did St-Romain-en-Gal. In fact, head there first to appreciate the magnificence of the area’s ancient legacy at the superlative modern Musée et Site Archéologique (t 04 74 53 74 01), presenting fabulous finds in a contemporary glass block by the Rhône. The traders ordered sumptuous dwellings. Over 250 mosaic floors have been uncovered either side of the river, making this one of the most prolific areas for such art in the Roman world. Some tell mythological stories, others feature decorative motifs. There are also outstanding Gallo-Roman mural paintings, models of Vienne and St-Romain-en-Gal in ancient times. As well as all the other archaeological finds typically associated with Roman towns – statues of gods, tools, amphorae – creating a highly evocative picture of Vienne’s Gallo-Roman life. Don’t miss the luxurious latrines rescued for posterity either! Outside lies an extensive archaeological site with its network of streets and partially reconstructed villas.

Culture

Vienne itself seems overwhelmed by the weight of its cultural legacy. On its hillside, the ruined medieval bishops’ castle peers wearily over the town. The 19th-century church with its massive statue of the Virgin looks down more confidently; standing out most boldly is the modern hospital, a slightly unfortunate symbol of Vienne’s decrepitude. But fear not, this ancient town really has a feisty old heart. Vienne’s Roman theatre (t 04 74 85 39 23) lies snugly embedded in the hillside, yet with over 40 tiers, counts among the largest built in Gaul. Today the place hosts the prestigious Vienne summer jazz festival, as made clear in colourful style in a big recent outdoor mural illustrating Vienne’s history on the back of the town theatre. Its 1930s front concealing an Italianate interior, offering an elegant covered venue. The impressive corner arches in the nearby archaeological Jardin de Cybèle, may have formed one angle of the extensive Roman forum. At the south end, the ancient structure was thought once to have been a temple to the Roman nature goddess.

Sitting squarely in the middle of Place de Miremont, the grand 1820's granary has long housed the distinctly old-fashioned Musée des Beaux-Arts et d’Archéologie (t 04 74 85 50 42). A mammoth’s tusk and Neolithic tomb signal inhabitants around here before the Allobroges, from whose times just the odd metallic object remains. Highlight of the Gallo-Roman displays here is buried treasure only unearthed in the 1980s. Possibly hidden from the invading barbarian hordes, the exceptional banqueting pieces include two exquisite silver platters, one decorated with exotic animals and men at work, the other with recumbent women. The collections of ornate Ancien Régime and 19th-century paintings and ceramics seem fussy by comparison.

Skirting round the massive medieval cathedral, perhaps going via the tree- and café-lined Cours Romestang, then Place de la République, you arrive at the battered church of St Peter (t 04 74 85 20 35) with some of the oldest Christian roots in Vienne. But since the 19th century, this has been used as a chaotic storehouse for all sorts of truly extraordinary Gallo-Roman fragments taken from around town, archaeological pornography of the highest order. A beautiful, monumental classical face greeting you at the entrance, more unusual figures follow, including dancers disporting themselves in distinctly Indian style. Also root out the remnants of remarkable early Christian tombs. The one engraved with peacocks pecking at grapes may have been made for Léonien, an abbot of prime importance when a monastery was founded on this spot in the 6th century. The grey, neglected church is essentially Romanesque. The rest of the monastery has vanished, but the year of 1349 witnessed the first meeting concerning the sale of the Dauphiné region to the French crown. However, it would take until 1450 for Dauphin Louis II (later King Louis XI) to take away control of Vienne from its archbishops. The brutish Tour des Valois the other side of the pedestrian river crossing, recalls the centuries when the Rhône served as frontier between France and the Holy Roman Empire. Vienne has just revived its riverside with a new port in front of the tourist office and public gardens. Try a short cruise on the Rhône from here.

Before focusing on the cathedral, a little to the north, Vienne’s most exceptional Roman monument still stands out proudly in the very heart of town, the Temple of Augustus and Livia on Place Charles de Gaulle. Its columns may look chipped, and the place may have undergone major surgery in the 19th century, but the building stamps Roman imperial authority on the centre to this day. The tower of the law courts presides over the building. Wonderful cafés allow you to pay homage from a comfortable seat.

History

Vienne’s several medieval churches, highly visible to travellers along the Rhône, help recall what an extremely important Christian centre this was. The former Cathédrale St-Maurice resembles Lyon’s muscular Primatiale St-Jean from the front. Various structures succeeded each other on the site from perhaps as early as the 3rd century. In the 8th centure, the establishment came by the supposed head of the Roman military convert Maurice, martyred with his men in Switzerland. After King Boson of Burgundy had established a base here in the 9th century, donations followed from that line of rulers, for whom the cathedral became a final resting place. The present cathedral is a mix of the Romanesque and the Gothic. Among the delightful decorations in the three late-Gothic portals, look out for the adorable musical angels. Sixty high Romanesque capitals survive down the nave, with their amusing carved decorations. Leave by the north door to admire more wonderful stone carving, some taken from much earlier Gallo-Roman architecture, hardly a surprise in this city!

The most interesting historic streets, the network dating in part to medieval times, lead up to the other main Christian stop, St-André-le-Bas, from the Roman temple, or from spacious Place François Mitterrand, the latter hosting the daily market, the impressively arcaded town hall to one side. Towers stick out high above the lively shopping drags, built to provide wealthy inhabitants with fresher air and more light. Rue des Clercs, lined by the arcades of 15th-century shops, became the home to popular Lyon puppeteer Laurent Morguet. Rue des Orfèvres boasts some of the finest towers, continuing into Rue Marchande. The big church of St-André-le-Bas contains just a few mighty capitals, a couple Roman, a couple with Romanesque interpretations of biblical stories. But the main interest is in the Cloître St-André-le-Bas (t 04 74 85 18 49), its greying Romanesque cloister held on elegant columns with animal decorations. The mass of epitaphs on the walls behind, stretch from the 5th to the 18th century, making an exceptional collage indicating the age of Vienne’s Christian past. Contemporary art shows provide quite a contrast in further spaces. Down closer to the river, the Salle du Patrimoine (free) offers clear, brief introductions to the main stages in Vienne’s history, Roman vaults hidden behind it, of course!

South of the centre, one last Gallo-Roman remain worth seeking out is the Aiguille, long claimed in one of those more far-fetched Christian legends, as the tomb of Pontius Pilate. In fact the imposing arch topped by a soaring obelisk probably formed the centrepiece of a Roman circus. Also consider climbing Mont Pipet, the Roman theatre at your feet, to enjoy almost as good views as the Black Virgin atop the church. The vista along the Rhône valley proves surprisingly unspoilt, the vines of Condrieu to the south, those of the recently renewed Vienne vineyards to the north.

For more information on the towns and sights along the Rhône between Lyon and Provence, read the Cadogan guide to the Rhône-Alpes.

Other Towns around Vienne

_______________________________________________

Search by region:

Search by Department:

Search by Town:

HOLIDAY RENTALS

Travel Insurance

More Info

Travel

Maps & Routes

Services